Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts

01 May 2013

A South Indian Feast in Kathmandu

Nobody pani(c) - I have this pani puri under control.

When I feel like eating a meal that consists of that otherworldly combination of greasy, sweet, salty, spicy and tangy, I head to Anmol Sweets in Bhat Bhateni and stuff my face with delicious, cheap Southern Indian food.

Indian fast food restaurants are often referred to as "sweet shops" even when they have entire menus of savoury items alongside their dazzling display cases of barfi, gulab jamun and laddu. Anmol Sweets is no exception to this rule, with dosas, idlis, vadas and fantastic samosas all on hand for lunch and dinner.


Can I just have this liquified and put in an IV, please? K, thanks.

Last week I met some friends there for lunch, and my dear Cass and I decided to order a feast. We started with a plate of samosa. These are not your greasy Canadian gas station monstrosities - they were light and flaky pastries jammed with spicy potatoes and peas and dipped in a sweet, sugary tamarind honey water. After downing my portion, I gurgled "I think I'm full!" Cass raised her eyebrows.

"Vi, that.... well, that's just isn't an option. " I sighed. She was right - it was mind over matter and I would persevere.

 Pani Puri - salty, briny, crunchy, mushy goodness oh my god yum.

Pani Puri is a beloved Indian street food snack also popular in Nepal, but it is known for making foreigners very sick due to the usage of tap water in the brine - even some local Nepalis stay away from what is sold outdoors! Pani means water, and puri refers to the hollow crunchy cracker balls - the wallah (seller) jabs his oft-filthy thumb into the cylinder, stuffs the inside with a potato curry paste and dips the whole thing into spicy, salty brine. They present them to you as fast as you can stuff them in your mouth, and each delicious ball is less than 10 cents.

While I often take a BIG gamble and indulge in the streetside offering, ordering a DIY Pani Puri plate at a reputable sweet shop is a better bet and is way less likely to leave you clinging to the toilet and cursing your intrepid, food-loving ways (I don't know this from experience, or anything). These were delicious, but I must say, I missed the dirty thumbs of a street-seller.

 Dosa, one of the world's perfect foods. (If you are a drunk.) (Which I am.)

Within minutes my main course arrived - a "small" paneer masala dosa. This is a thin lentil pancake stuffed with a rich and creamy Indian cottage cheese curry. You tear small pieces of the dosa with your hands and dip them in the coconut chutney and the spicy tomato sambars. I am always amazed that dosas have never replaced the kebab or the poutine as the ideal late night drunk food, because they would be a lovely latenight guilty pleasure perfect for sopping up booze.

Last lunch with Cass and Nafisa :(
 
We took a breather at this point - I was positively stuffed with delicious food, but I knew that I couldn't come to a restaurant with "Sweets" in the name and not indulge, at least a little bit, in something sinfully sugary. We ordered some fresh plates of jalebis. 
 
Nothing is more wonderful than fresh, hot jalebi. Nothing.
Ignore the clock behind her - time has clearly stopped. Cass is in heaven.

Jalebis are hollow swirls of wheat dough deepfried and then soaked in sugar water. When they're fresh they are crunchy and sticky and they leave fluorescent orange syrup all over your face and a smile on your lips. I don't think there is a person alive that can resist the childlike pleasure of a jalebi - even the Disney gang loves them. I found myself making a quiet "mmmmmmmm" sound as I devoured the sweet little treat - the perfect end to our feast.

Though it was sad to realize that this was my final lunch with Cass, I am glad we chose to stuff our faces at a sweet shop. The best part (other than the jalebi)? The bill for 6 people was 1136 rupees - about 14 Canadian dollars.  I'll be back - solo - and let's be honest. I'mma order just as much food.

 
$2.33 each. Sold.

30 June 2010

The Angry Itch

Handmade Tara statue at the Norbulingka Institute in Dharamsala, India.

So, lately as I embark upon a slightly more spiritual path in my life and explore Buddhism and Hinduism earnestly (that is, without calling myself a douchebag in my head) I have, along side a growing sense of calm and contentedness, an almost animalistic urge to go traveling again. I can barely prevent my quivering fingers from tapping out the web addresses to travel sites and spending the last unspent chunk of credit card limit on a ticket to India or Bali.

I have been dreaming of the smoke filled chaotic streets of Delhi, the train station that I would have to navigate and conquer to find my way back to Dharamsala, high in the Himalayas and home to the Dalai Lama. Dreaming of landing in Hong Kong for a few days and then rushing through the traffic choked lanes to find the bus to the airport, barely making it in time for my flight to Denpasar, Bali where I would settle in the hills of Ubud and drink tea and drink wine and pet stray cats and commune all barefoot with my Buddha nature. Sigh.

About to set flowers in the Ganges in Varanasi.

Do I have a right to complain, and I sit here at my Summer job that countless other students applied for, in the middle of the luxury of being an adult scholar? I have pretty things, happy cats, fresh make-up and clean fingernails - but I just want to cash all of that in for a seedy room in some nondescript guesthouse, dirty feet and grubby fingers; for shots of blinding rice alcohol and heart thumping motorcycle rides and those moments when you breathe in and you're just - free and young and the whole world is just everything it is in that one moment. Y'know?

Alas, my schooling is more important and has to, for once and for all, get finished. And then I need to knock off my Masters, all in pursuit of my dream job. But, I have a feeling that this itch, this squirming, howling angry itch will not go away. I need to get back to crazy India. I need to go and meditate in the hills of that magical volcanic island in Indonesia. I need to live my true Buddha nature - as a traveler.

Bells at a Kali temple in the Chamba Valley, Northern India.

(And maybe you could help me and click this link so I can win a trip? It takes two seconds and I would be oh so happy!)

17 December 2009

See, Jain, Think

My favourite quote.

During the Christmas season I know that we are supposed to reflect on family and friends and our good graces - but lately I have been getting a bit more esoteric than shortbread and giftwrap.

See, it was nearly a year ago exactly that I visted a humongous, strangely gawdy/beautiful Jain temple in Mumbai, where I was living at the time, and I am not sure if it is all the yoga I have been doing lately but I can't stop thinking about the quote pictured above.

Jainism is one of India's strangest religion - an offshoot of Hinduism that was first practiced 2600 years ago, around the same time that Siddhartha Gautama (Buddha, to you and I) was walking the countryside and creating his own religion, Buddhism. Jains are a super strict ascetic bunch who are so passionate in their vow of non-violence to ALL creatures that they sweep the ground in front of them as they walk (as to not step on bugs) and wear masks at all times (to avoid inhaling said bugs) - hell, they don't even eat food grown underground (that's the bug's food.) The practice is just common enough throughout India that many coffeeshops and hotels have special Jain menus. It is a fascinating and deeply tradition steeped religion - I am in awe of the Jains I have met.

You can see the weeks old bullet holes in the pillars at Leopold's.

A few days before Christmas (and our weeklong trip to the Maldives) my Mum, S and I toured downtown Mumbai mere weeks after the attacks, stopping to see the damage to the Taj Hotel and even having a drink at the iconic Leopold's (where 11 had been shot dead during the seige.) The Jain temple, one of the biggest in India, was the highlight of my day (even more than the vultures circling the Parsi 'Towers of Silence' - but that is another entry.)

"Every man is the architect of his own fortune." The quote written on the stairs in the temple hit me in the chest with its simplicity and wisdom - I had one of those cliched "A-Ha" moments (no, not one of those - one of these.) We were blessed with sandalwood tikka marks on our third eye and headed to another of Mumbai's sights - but this one was the most important to me.

The bowl filled with the fragrant sandalwood tikka for blessings.

So this Christmas, one year later, I reflect not on Jesus, not on Allah, not on Shiva - but on Jain wisdom and it's simple messages of non-violence and responsibility for oneself. Quit worrying about gifts and gossip and out-doing your neighbours. Worry about yourself, your own state of peace and your own joy. To be a navel gazing yogi - focus on this moment, right now and really live in it - make it perfect. If we all try this the world will be a better place. You are the architect of your own future. Remember that.

....and also remember, I do like gifts too. I'm not that spiritual.

Bless this S.

Before anyone writes me any outraged/patronizing/prosletyzing comments about Jesus please, please try to remember that every single one of the world's religions feels just as passionately as you do that they are the only RIGHT ones. You've made mistakes before, right? Like that time on that school trip? Or that time in Cabo? C'mon.

02 November 2009

A Review of "Shantaram"


V is currently in Fiji and is having difficulty getting a stable internet connection, so she hasn't been able to update her blog and won't be able to for a bit. She's been writing a lot, so as soon as she's got a stable internet connection again there will be a lot of content coming.

For now, here's a review of Shantaram she wrote while we were still in India that's been published by the fine folks at Blunt Force Beating. Here's a snippet:
"Leopold’s Bar is an institution in Mumbai. It opened its doors in 1871 and is still a popular expat and backpacker hangout today, featured in every guide book and travel show made about crazy Bombay – The Maximum City. It hosts a mix of douchebag hippies on their way to party in Goa, young urban professionals here to celebrate merger completions and red nosed Western ex-patriots escaping their demons.
...
It’s one of those books that are always found in backpacker neighbourhoods in Asia – Shantaram is by far the book of choice for India. Every second traveler has a finger wedged in this 900 page monster, in whose pages Leopold’s is mentioned so often that it is practically a main character."
Have a great week everyone.
-s

11 October 2009

Confusing Photo of the Week #7

Well, it's better than the "totlet for lamer"...

Oh India, home to the world's most inventive and resourceful people - if there is a solution to be had using cheaper materials someone will have already duct taped it together somewhere on the subcontinent.

A similar photo was featured on Failblog a few months ago, but I swear that this is the real deal - I spied this gem in the Cathedral of Bom Jesus in Old Goa. Apparently the remains of St. Francis Xavier are also there, but I hardly noticed, so fixated with this marvel of ingenuity was I.

The next time someone you know is complaining about their life, show 'em old deckchair here.
That oughtta do it.

(Thanks so much to Benson at Benson's Scene for pointing out that this chair is actually the product of an amazing charity project called "The Free Wheelchair Mission" - it's designed to supply disabled folks from poor countries with affordable means of transportation. Wow! Please click here to learn more about the cause and donate some moolah!)

22 July 2009

"That is the promise?"

It doesn't matter what you do. Even if you read or doze or chat animatedly, when you lay on the beach in Anjuna, Goa you are interupted by the question“You like see my shop?” repeated again and again by passing young women, as if it is their capitalist mantra. I'm particularly good at a gentle “No didi*, but you have good luck with other people” used with varying degrees of success. Gia, however, did not take this hint and did not continue down the beach, away from me and my relaxation as I hoped she would.

The world's best salesperson.

“Yes, you see my shop. Nice things. All 50 rupees only*. What is your name?” When it gets to this point I am always weakened with an inborn Canadian politeness that prevents me from leaving posed questions unanswered lest I appear rude.
“Jessica” I responded, sighing. I knew that this exchange was going to last at least a few more minutes. The little girl proferred a tiny mehndied hand.
“Jetseeka. I am Gia. And what is your name?” Sean looked up from his book, warily. It is uncommon for me to let things get to this stage with touts and vendors, and he knew something was awry here.
“Sean.” He replied, also shaking her hand.
“Shann. Are you married?” She directed this question back at me, small eyes piercing me as she asked the most common of all questions in India. The answer would determine her level of respect for us – if we were decent human beings.

“Yes....um, no. He is my boyfriend.” I stuttered, figuring in this of all swinging liberal hippy places, that she would know what the term boyfriend meant (in a tiny village in Nepal the girls didn't. They thought I meant Sean was my brother when I said boyfriend, as that is the closest thing they could conceptualize to unmarried partners of the opposite sex. In order to save face once it was explained to them I had to tell them we were engaged. They still weren't happy.) She looked at Sean with consternation.

Working her magic on Shann

“You make marriage together soon, ok? That is the promise?” Sean, now laughing at the cheeky 9 year old, agreed. She looked at me “You too. You make marriage. That is the promise. OK?” I also agreed to keep the promise. She edged closer to me still. “You have very black hair. You are very white. Are you from England?”
“No,” I told her “we're from Canada.” She nodded approvingly.
“I like Canada people. You have very black hair. Now you see my shop? Everything 50 rupees. No buying, just looking.” Her shop turned out to be a tupperware container filled with sparkly trinkets and baubles, and she was fast opening it next to my head. I quickly tried to nip this in the bud.

“Nahee, didi. I don't want anything today. Maybe tomorrow....” I trailed off as she was already unloading her wares. She held a glittering little box up to my eye for inspection.
“See, all 50 rupees. You like this? I have pen, box, necklace, toe ring, anklet -” She stopped dead as she saw me hesitate at the mention of the anklets. Just that morning I had been admiring a Russian girl's silver ones, telling Sean that I wanted some just like them. “Anklet! See, very beautiful.” Before I could stop her, the jewelry was being fastened around my foot. “50 rupees just joking.” She said, smiling at me angelically.

I eyed her suspiciously. “What do you mean just joking? How much is this anklet?” She looked at me gravely.
“No business for me today Jetseeka, this anklet is the best quality, 250 rupees, how much you give me?” I looked back at her, deadpan.
“50 rupees.” I countered. She debated me with gusto, highlighting the quality, her lack of business and the fact she had just been joking about the price each time I told her 50 rupees only was all was I was willing to pay. We eventually settled on 100 rupees, and I was laughing openly at this point.
“You know didi, 'just joking' is the same as lying. '50 rupees only' is lying.” She looked at me nonchalantly and nodded.
“Yes. I have no business, so I say 50 rupees.”
“Also, this isn't real silver.” She giggled and shook her head.
“No.”
“And I paid too much because I like you, Gia.”
“Good!” She exclaimed, and proceeded to start the whole sales process over again with “Shann” despite me having figured out her ruse. She quickly realized that it was going nowhere, and as she packed up her “shop” she looked at me and squinted.

In the end, it is a very nice anklet....

“I like your clip.” I reached up and felt my hair – I had a tiny black barrette holding back my bangs, the kind that are a dollar per dozen at home. I unclippped it.
“Here. You can have it.” I said, handing it to her. Her eyes got wide.
“Yah?” She took it from me and immediately pulled her hair back, using it to secure her wispy ponytail. “OK, bye bye. I miss you soon!” She ran down the beach, and shouted “You do the promise!”
over her shoulder.

I leaned back on my beach chair, Sean and I both laughing. Tears sprang into my eyes and I looked down into my lap and read the title of the book I was reading, an anthology of travel stories each with a common theme.

The title was The Kindness of Strangers.

It seems apt.


*didi means sister in Hindi
*50 rupees is 1.25 CAD

Fast friends. Thanks, persistent little girl...

04 July 2009

America, Uh Huh

This is a small thatch hut between Kalaw and Inle Lake, in the heart of Myanmar. Behind that calendar - yes, that is an Obama/Biden sticker.

I was in Udaipur, India during the November 2008 US elections and was traveling with 2 American girls, both with left wing politics. We were eating a nice supper on the eve of the vote when some red-nosed Scottish and British package tourists wearing Bermuda shorts and sandals with socks approached our table and eyed us suspiciously. “You Americans?” One of them asked accusatorily. I raised my hands.
“We are Canadians here.” I said, pointing to S and I.
“We are.” Sarah said politely, gesturing to Megan and herself.
“A lot of guts you've got to admit it – you better vote in Obama tomorrow.” He sneered at them in a gruff voice. “You've got a lot to explain to the resta the world for Bush – you better do the right thing tomorrow, you lot.” He tottered away and I was left aghast. If someone approached me and told me, rather demanded of me that I vote a certain way in my country's sovereign elections I would probably stand up and spit in their face. Yet Megan and Sarah sat there and just nodded.
“OK sir, we never voted for Bush – I understand. We like Obama – Go Obama.” I asked them how they could stand it. Megan answered.
“Well, a lot of people feel like they have a say in what happens because our government really meddles in a lot of things around the world that they shouldn't.” I agreed. That I understood.
“But the audacity to yell at you – that is absurd! I don't tell individual Israelis what I think, I don't get in shouting matches with Saudis and Qataris when I see a woman in a burqua – what gives someone the right to act as if you are personally to blame?” We all shrugged and went back to our meal. This was not the last time I would witness these 2 girls have to defend their home, usually from people with a taste for American music and clothing. It started me thinking.

*********************

America. The very word is enough to evoke pride, anger, fear and condescension. No nation has ever been more contentious, more powerful or more controversial than the red, white and blue. A republic of 50 states cobbled together as a social experiment, a nation of empire that vehemently denies empire building, a meddling country incapable of minding its own business that uses mind games and rhetoric on its own people. And I, the least likely supporter of the stars and stripes, am here to defend it.

Not for the reasons that you would think, either.

I am a Canadian. This means that I benefit from the good things of being North American while being able to vote in multi-party elections, visit my doctor for free for any reason (and even a therapist if I have hypochondria) and have memorized the lyrics to “God Save the Queen.” It is a good place to be, Canada, and if you can steel yourself for the freezing Winters and blistering Summers you will be rewarded with a laid back attitude, friendly neighbours and unparalleled natural beauty. But it is not....exciting.

Our movie industry, for instance, realized decades ago that it could not compete with the whizzbang excitement of Hollywood and instead began focusing on creating a quirky, arty cinema that can easily be recognized (and avoided) by all Canadians for its low budget aesthetic and ability to do really well at European Film Fests. Canadian children learn early on that if you see an NFB logo (National Film Board of Canada) you should immediately change the channel lest you be subjected to “The Log Driver's Waltz” for the tenth time. Even our authors, prolific writers like Margaret Atwood, Alice Munro, Mordecai Richler and Timothy Findley write with a sort if dull melancholy and sparse simplicity that distinguishes them around the world for being different – when in reality they are just being Canadian.

Our government protects our unique culture with 'Canadian Content laws' that require that a third of all broadcast media be Canadian – and it has to be protected from of our shiny, exciting, charismatic neighbour. He doesn't always wipe his shoes, he isn't always polite and sometimes he makes us so angry! But he is the life of the party, he's genuinely friendly and his intentions are generally good – its no wonder our citizens would rather hang out with him than their plain humble countrymen.

When it comes to all of our media needs we overwhelmingly prefer it to be American – just like the people of almost every country on this planet do.

Why do people around the world claim to hate America so much, claim to hate what it stands for and the way that they conduct themselves and get uppity and angry at the very mention of their politics - but gobble up their media like it is candy? Why can you buy American fashions in the European capitals? Why are US movies, books, TV shows and magazines the standard around the world? And music – jazz, rock n' roll, blues, country n western, rap, bluegrass, honky tonk, hip hop, heavy metal (sorry Led Zep, I know the term was coined for you, but Iggy and the Stooges beat you to the sound) were all born in the USA– who are we all trying to kid? We LOVE America. We idolize, mythologize and sexualize America.

Their Enemy Number One, Osama Bin Laden - loves Whitney Houston.
Saddam had photos of Brit Brit in his bunker.

Yet every day I meet Aussies, Europeans, Brits and yes – other Canadians who sneer and roll their eyes when the USA is mentioned (except when talking about Obama – the world's biggest crush) and then hop on their iPods and play some JayZ or watch 30 Rock. And instead of pointing this out, American travelers, when asked where they are from, quietly respond and try to downplay their nationality instead of shouting it from rooftops.

*****************

America's hypocrisy – the foisting of democracy on unwilling countries when they themselves have a voter turn out of 50%; the corrupt politics; the racism, sexism and classism inherent in its policies; the war mongering and money grubbing – is abhorrent. But then again, isn't Britain's? Wouldn't Russia be doing the same or worse if they had won the Cold War? What if Germany and Japan had won World War II – you don't think that there would be a few problems? The most powerful nation is always corrupted by its limitless power (Rome, anyone?) and while that is not a justification for their behaviour – for the graves of Iraqi civilians, the children dying of hunger in Afghanistan and the discrediting of legally elected governments whenever it is convenient– it does make me glad that it is in America's somewhat benign hands and not, let's say, Iran's.

Americans are generally friendly people with good hearts yet they are stereotyped in the world as ignorant and mean. Their country has some of the best universities and brilliant scientists, yet they still are generalized in the world as rednecks. They come from a place where it truly is possible to climb your way out from the gutter and emerge rich and famous a'la Horatio Alger, and while many people in the West deny it the numbers do not lie: ask almost any person in Asia, Africa and South America and they would say that America is where they dream of emigrating. They also happen to make media and both high (Jackson Pollock) and low (The Hills) culture that we all want to be a part of.

All of us – every person who looks down their nose at Pawdunk, Iowa and thanks their lucky stars that they are from Stockholm, Toronto or London instead – wants to be in New York for the art, the theatre, the nightclubs. We all want to dip our fingers into the gold glitter of LA and drape ourselves in New Orleans' beads. We want to ride trolleycars in San Francisco and pull on a one armed bandit in Vegas. We want to immerse ourselves in the mythical Wild West, to play Davey Crockett and Johnny Appleseed and Paul Bunyan. We want Disneyland. But if you mention America as a whole – we cringe.

People around the world who sneer and claim superiority should look no further than the Pizza Huts, Starbucks, McDonalds and Walmarts in their cities – they are there for a reason. People have voted with their dollars and they want American goods. They want coronary inducing American food. They want to watch a Hollywood Blockbuster while munching fake-buttered popcorn, popping Milkduds and swilling a Coke. They want to laugh guiltily at Family Guy and read an Archie Double Digest. This is not some crazy US plot – if the people didn't want it than it wouldn't sell. Supply and demand. And they demand America.

And what about our hypocrisy? We're not better than them -we want to be them. We want to enjoy all of their good things and then to harshly criticize them every chance we get. No wonder they get defensive! Imagine how you would feel if an Aussie was eating poutine, drinking a Molson and watching Trailer Park Boys while wearing hockey jersey - at the same time telling you that Canada is backward, boring and should be destroyed. You would want to punch them. At the very least you would laugh at their hypocrisy. But this is exactly what we do to Americans. Take a look at your closet, your laptop contents, your DVDs and concert stubs and you'll see I'm right - if I'm wrong feel free to go back to your smug feelings of superiority – you earned them.

We should never allow our admiration of their culture blind us to the truly awful things that the US government does in the name of its people, nor do I think that the rising tide of the religious right and their determination to strip away human rights is anything to look up to. But I think that we need to stop pretending that America as a whole is low-class and simple minded unless we also accept that as the people that gobble up so much of their media - we are too.

I'm surprised they don't make bigger flags.

We don't have some invisible halo of superiority just because our passport isn't from the USA - my Canadianess does not make me a better person. The same logic states that a person should not be singled out on the street or in a restaurant and told that their country is bad or that they personally have some explaining to do.

The next time you have an urge to say “I'm sorry” when someone tells you they're from the US you should really say “Thank you for all the stuff” and think about what your country has done that is so much better.

21 June 2009

40 tips for a first-time trip to India... UPDATED!


Namaste and good luck!
  1. Sometimes, you just gotta give up. See, many small scenarios are going to irritate, anger and frustrate you – and your instinct will be to raise your voice or question the bizarre information or instructions you are getting.  If it is a big deal – well, you should stand up for yourself. But remember that getting in an argument may seem satisfying now, but you'll usually feel shitty about it later. So give up. Pay a bit more. If someone in charge is asking you to do something stupid, just do it. It's easier, it'll save you a headache and your pulse rate will remain normal, which, on a 40 degree day, is worth it.

  2. Do not let people in busy places (train stations etc) see that you are intimidated, afraid, confused or overwhelmed. Even if you're pissed, don't raise your voice or have a hissy - just use your best acting skills and remain mellow. People will undoubtedly be confused as to why you are making angry faces at what to them is a normal situation. They will pity you for being so uptight, and not connect your irritation to anything that they are doing to cause said irritation. So you gotta be chill!

  3. Most of the typical scams found in movies and detailed in Lonely Planet do not occur anymore. Therefore, your shoes will not get stolen at monuments, no one is refilling old water bottles with tap water and re-selling them, the shoeshine kids don't squirt crap on your shoes only to offer to clean them. Despite this – ALWAYS decide on a price for everything in advance – tuktuks (called auto rickshaws here), a shoeshine, fruit, whatever. Never hammer it out later – people will try to rip you off an unimaginable amount.
  1. Learn as much Hindi as you can. Wobble your head from side to side to indicate yes and maybe. Learn about cricket and Bollywood. Call people “didi” (older sister) and “bhai” (older brother) and say “Accha!” to indicate good or okay. Play in the street with children. Be calm and amiable (see number 2). It's more fun this way, people will like you, and your experience will be much better..
  1. Trains are pretty easy - a monkey could navigate them (and many probably have, judging by the huge populations living at the stations). Book online – there are 2 websites, but you can only book on one irctc.com. You need to know the station names and select the specific class you want - you will get you an error if there is no through train – ie: if you have to connect and take a different train at a midpoint, and also if there is no “AC chair car”. There might still be a train – play around with classes. Try indiamike.com for detailed info – the message board is a life-saver. 

    At a glance Night Trains:
    • 1st Class Sleeper– does not exist on most trains, but it is more like the Darjeeling Limited with private cabins and a server
    • 2nd class Sleeper: Both 2 and 3 berth (means 3 tiers or 2 tiers when converted at night– most backpackers take 3AC – not to be confused with 3rd class) - solid options, but 3AC can be REALLY loud. Both have clean sheets and blankets, but there are cockroaches and mice on some routes (Varanasi – Agra is a badddd one). 2AC is better for a more restful sleep – you get a curtain and it is much less crowded.
    • Sleeper – same as 3AC, but with no AC. The lack of AC means that the windows are open, and that can mean that it is either wayyy too hot in the Summer, or wayyy too cold in the Winter. This class will be pretty crowded – see below. No blankets or sheets provided.
    • 3rd Class – see entry below, hippie.

    At a Glance Day Trains:
    • AC Chair Car- As close to a Western train as you're gonna get. For day trips it is even cheaper than sitting in 2AC/3AC – and it includes a meal (ack) and a bottle of water. Really good.
    • Chair Car – Same as above, no AC and no meal.
    • 2AC and 3AC - On trains that do not have Chair Cars, this is the nicest option.
    • Sleeper - If you don't need AC, this is a better price.
    • 3rd Class – This is the Indian train you have seen in movies, with people hanging off the sides. It has no assigned seating and is only good if you are really committed to having the most authentic experience possible. If you are that much of a hippie ( I kid! I love you guys. Ish) do remember that you will not have anywhere to put your bag, and you probably won't get a seat. This is also available at night.... but don't.

  2. On trains, bring food – you can only get unhealthy deep fried stuff and sweet white bread sandwiches, and the chai wallah (seller) will wake you up at 5am. (And 5:05, 5:10 and so on.) Sleep with your passport etc under your head, and bring earplugs or ipod. Some people even bike-lock their bags to the bottom of the bunk, but keep valuables on your bunk with you no matter what. A lot of folks in India are used to the volume of life in general being a lot louder than in the West – some people they talk loudly the whole night if they are not tired or are squished 4 to a berth (not technically allowed, but happens when trains are overbooked). It's important to remember that they and don't consider it rude – sometimes they even sing. So try to be chill about it, even when you are exhausted!

  3. You will be stared at. Let's just be honest about that.  Like, epic staring. Open mouthed, crowd around you, intense staring. There is nothing you can do about it. Just remember that it is not rude here, so don't get offended. You're just a neat novelty! That is my mantra about many things in India “It is not rude here, it is not rude here, it is not rude here.....”

  4. If you are a dude, do not get too friendly, smiley etc with any women until you really know them – you could really offend their modesty. Prostitutes dress just like other women, but they can be identified because they hold eye contact, so trying to make eye contact with all women can be problematic.

  5. An average tip for a porter, beggar, etc is 10 rupees. They sometimes call this “baksheesh,” although that can also mean a bribe. (So can 'Tea Money” - if you get asked for a bribe, pay it. Just pay it. Give up. See number 1.)You do not need to tip auto rickshaw drivers. At touristy restaurants tip 10% or just round up a bit.
  1. Many Indians WILL NOT tell you no. They will tell you “5 minutes” “Maybe” or “Soon” instead (the only exception is at restaurants, which often are out of more than half of the menu's dishes.) This is a major problem when asking for directions – they will make stuff up rather than admit they don't know and potentially disappoint you. Do not point and ask “Is it this way?” because the answer will be yes. Ask “Which way is it?” instead. Its not foolproof, but you have a better chance of getting a correct answer.

  2. Some of the religious men offering you a flower and red bracelet on the street (especially in Varanasi, Pushkar, and also in Kathmandu, Nepal) are trying to cheat you. Do not take the flower. (They do this prayer thing for the happiness of your relatives in heaven and then demand up to 1000 rupees.) Say you already did the ceremony in Varanasi. You can get this genuine prayer inside a temple or ashram if you want it.

  3. If someone is dressed as a god, animal, or in fancy costume in any way – and you take a photo – you will owe them 10 rupees. Sometimes its totally worth it, just remember this before snapping away.

  4. Spend 2 to 3 weeks in Rasjastan. It is the most magical part of India (not necessarily the most beautiful). Jasailmer, Pushkar, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Bundi are all amazing – in my opinion you can skip Jaipur. I suggest heading straight to Jasailmer (it's the farthest away) on a night train from Delhi and have it be your first city. Its amazing – do a camel safari. Drink a lot of masala chai in Rajasthan -its the best in India. Thalis are also good here – a selection of foods served on a metal tray.

  5. Delhi is awesome, but you might hate it at first - like, really hate it. It may seem dirty, insane, charmless and intolerable! BUT - if you go back a second time it will seem completely modern, clean and pleasant compared to most of India. Take a cycle rickshaw around Old Delhi – the madness and chaos made it one of my favourite things I did in India. Other highlights are the Gandhi Smrti, Q'Tub Minar, Hamayan's Tomb and the Jama Masjid.

  6. Try to engage in some spiritual activities – yoga at an ashram, Ganga Aarti ( night prayer ceremony on the Ganges) Tibetan Buddhist meditation in Dharamsala. I mean, don't be a douche about it ;) and get all serious, but try some of it out. After all, when in Rome! (Or, like, Udaipur...)

  7. Stay away from meat. Just don't even touch it – other than seafood in Goa and Kerala (Keralan fried fish is one of my favourite meals ever – you have to try it!) Many people who get sick get sick from the meat. I suggest hand sanitizing a lot until your stomach gets used to India....keep some ciprofloxin on hand in case you get an attack of traveler's stomach. Lassi (yoghurt shakes) are safe – just ask if they use mineral water for the ice. I personally think that street food is safe – veg stuff. If its a busy stall it should be fine – sweets, samosas and kachooris are all good! Food at hotels is invariably bland and overpriced – get out of the hotel! Western food is uniformly terrible unless it is from a restaurant that only serves that one type of cuisine...

  8. Malaria, typhoid, dengue and Japanese encephalitis are all here – do not get bitten by mosquitoes. Rabies is also a problem – the biggest culprits are dogs, monkeys and bats, and there are a lot of those – especially at train stations.

  9. It is up to you if you give money to kids, but I never, ever do.  I usually give to disabled people and the elderly, but not kids – they are often being controlled by little slave owners who keep their earnings. Even if this is not the case, they are being kept from school to do this, and they make more than you think they do.

  10. Read Shantaram. Everyone does, and it's for a reason. Other Indian fiction that I love includes:
    • A Fine Balance – Rohinton Mistry
    • A Suitable Boy – Vikram Seth
    • The Inheritance of Loss – Kiran Desai
    • White Tiger – Aravind Adega
    • The God of Small Things - Arundhati Roi
    • Midnight's Children – Salman Rushdie
    Reading about Indian culture, religion and history will also get you prepared – you will notice the small things that are easily missed, and your experience will be much richer for it.

  11. Don't eat cut fruit from the street – it has been sprayed with dirty water from a bucket to make it look fresh and appealing – hello dysentery! Use your swiss army knife to peel and cut your own fruit.

  12. They will not understand your accent – try shortening the vowel sounds. (Our English overemphasizes vowels, their English overemphasizes consonants). You can also try a Hindi accent – it works! Therefore, Aarey Colony (where we lived in Mumbai) became Ahdie Chllonny. Use British terms whenever they exist – ie: capsicum instead of green pepper, lift instead of elevator, torch instead of flashlight, plasters instead of band-aids etc.

  13. No, dudes are not getting gay everywhere you look. Men here hold hands, cuddle, spoon and vacation together without women – and its totally hetero. I still giggle, but it is totally normal here. Conversely, no PDAs at all for hetero couples, including hand holding.

  14. Do not listen to drivers when they claim that the hotel you are interested in is full/closed/bad/exploded – they just want to take you to a hotel that will pay them commission. Insist on going to the hotel you want to go to.

  15. Swastikas are everywhere – no one is a Nazi! Its a Hindu/Jain/Buddhist symbol meaning peace.

  16. If you take a local bus (ie: not a tourist “AC luxury bus”) there will be a narrow compartment of people squished in above you, and even more people on the roof. Because some rurally based people don't travel in vehicles very often they can get motion sick quite easily and then puke out the windows (if you're lucky they puke OUT and not IN.) Just keep your window shut, because they also spit water, paan (tobacco stuff) and actual spit out the windows as well, and if you are on the bottom it will swing back in and land all over you. I know this from experience. *Shudder*

  17. Spitting. It happens. In public. A LOT. Giant lung clearing hoarking spitting. And its not considered rude, so it happens in a lot of places that would be unimaginable at home. Restaurants have sinks in the middle of the dining area – though they is meant to be for washing your hands, people use it more for spitting, so there are often bit gobs sitting there. I suggest that you use a hand wipe and refrain from the sink until AFTER you eat, so that you do not lose your appetite. (....it's not rude here, it's not rude here.....)

  18. Only use your right hand to eat and shake hands with. The left hand is considered dirty and for bathroom duties. Always wash your hands before you eat, or at least use a handiwipe – some restaurants will give you a fork and spoon, and some will not, so it is best to be prepared to use your hands.

  19. Get your leftover food packed up and take it to go, and then peel the plastic off and leave it in the street where a dog or cow will eat it - they depend on garbage to live. But make sure you remove the plastic – cows are dumb guys and will eat it if it smells like food and it twists up their guts and they just kind of die on the street. Sad.

  20. Check your sheets and bathrooms when you check in – hotels employ young men and they are invariably not used to domestic work because the women in their families have always done it for them. Therefore – they will often just make the bed instead of changing the sheets. Ick.

  21. Ladies, no shoulders or knees unless you are in Goa, or unless you want to be like a stupid insensitive European hippie. *Shakes fist* You will get used to the heat – I promise! A thin gauzy scarf can be used as a shoulder covering – and helps keep a sunburn at bay. Spaghetti straps, tank tops, skirts above the knee, shorts, tube tops – well, you can wear them if you want. But keep in mind that you are offending everyone around you, people are laughing and pointing when your back is turned and you are also propagating the stereotype that Western women are easy, cheap and inappropriate. Thanks for that. The exceptions are touristy restaurants and nightclubs/pubs. When swimming in places other than Goa's beaches or a hotel pool, you need to wear capris and a tee shirt – no bikinis.

  22. You can eat free meals, and even stay for free, at every Sikh Gurudwara (temple.) The most famous is the Golden Temple, in Amritsar where they even have dorms specifically for Westerners. It is an amazing place, a must–see. If you do stay or eat, make sure to offer a donation and be respectful of the worshipers. The Gurudwara is one of the only places where if someone approaches you to show you around they are not trying to get money out of you – so feel free to listen! The dude will probably be from Delta or Abbotsford – no kidding.

  23. Beer. Kingfisher is delicious (to a point – I'll explain) with a spicy curry or a samosa snack – but good luck getting it. First of all – any restaurant that is “Family” or “Pure Vegetarian” has no booze, and people will look at you like you are an unsavoury lout if you ask for some (there is a slightly seedy, shameful opinion of people who drink in India). Finding a bar can be really difficult – we have had to resort to Ruby Tuesdays and TGI Friday's (both ridonkulously expensive) a few times. Secondly, there are dozens of random “No Alcohol” days in India: Gandhi-ji's birthday, state holidays, Nehru's death date – and they always manage to fall on a day that you were planning on going on the piss. It sucks.

    Finally, you might not want to drink all that much beer – in India all beer sold (including imports like Bud and Fosters that are actually made in India under license) must have a glycerol based additive. We can't figure out exactly why, but apparently it is a preservative? The additive gives the beer a dirty pennies taste, and gives MASSIVE hangovers after only 2 or 3 brewsks. There is a sneaky way to get around it (I learned this from Lonely Planet.) Take the beer and a glass of cold water. Open the beer and upend the bottle into the glass for a few minutes, and watch in horror as all of this weird oily stuff comes out and swirls around in the water – it is heavier than the beer and therefore will come out first, leaving 95% of your actual beer still in the bottle. The remainder will be fresher tasting and won't beat your head in the next day. Ta-da!
  24. Homestays are amazing – seek them out whenever possible. This is often the only place where you can get real homecooked Indian food made by a woman (women in the North do not work outside the home except in Delhi and Punjab) The food, the atmosphere, engaging people in conversation, participating in daily life – this is what traveling is all about. Forgo fancy hotels - I recommend as many homestays as you can do. My 2 favourites were Orchard Huts (ask for Nitin) in the Chamba Valley, and Green Palm Home (ask for Thomas) near Alleppey.

  25. When you take buses, make sure that your valuables are with you in a smaller bag at all times, and if you have a few small locks affix them to the outer zippers of your big pack. Your bag with most likely be tied to the roof of the bus, where up to 20 young men will be riding. It is not uncommon for people to have their bags rifled through. This comes more from curiosity about what weirdo backpackers have in their packs than from people actually wanting to steal, but that does happen occasionally. It is better not to tempt people by leaving cameras, Ipods, laptops and money in your big pack. Also, make sure that the ropes attaching your bag to the bus are secure – you do not want your bag flying down the highway and getting run over by a tractor and a herd of water buffaloes.

  26. Women, if a man grabs you or is leering too much – YELL. The boob grabbing stems from the stereotypes about Western women that 40 years of stupid hippies and Western media have helped to spread (see point 28), so men will try to pull shit with you that they would never ever dream of doing to an local woman. This is the one time that yelling is effective – he will be shamed and yelled at by the people around. While it is rare, when it does happen the most common time is in an auto rickshaw – either by passersby or the driver himself(We know 2 women that have had their boobs grabbed in Jaipur). Like I said – Yell.

  27. Don't let people give you back ripped or otherwise damaged bills – at many places they will not accept them, and the only way they get moved around as currency is in the pockets of gullible backpackers. Hand the Rupees back if they are even torn slightly and ask for new ones.

  28. Try not to need the doctor. Private practices do not seem to exist – you must go to a crowded hospital for all care. The hospital I went to was supposed to be a swanky one that Bollywood stars choose, but we waited for 4 hours in a dirty, crowded, noisy waiting room filled with queue jumpers and starey-pantses. If it is not an emergency, just wait til Thailand. Or Singapore. Or anywhere else in the world.

  29. The exteriors and common spaces of pretty much all buildings are decrepit and dirty – but inside the flats some are really nice! I apologized continuously for the feral dog and garbage-filled lobby and halls of our building (which I had described as “Baghdad Hospital Chic” when I first saw them) to some Indian friends. They looked around, genuinely confused and said it was 'fine' and 'normal.' There seems to be no way to tell if the apartment you are about to enter will be nice or not – so don't panic if you feel like you are entering a charnel house. Chances are the flat itself will be decent and clean.

  30. Shoes off in all temples, most small shops, some guesthouses and all people's homes. You can tell if it is expected of you if there is a pile of flip flops (they call them chappals or slippers) by the entrance.

  31. If food or drink is offered to you in a private home or shop, it is extremely rude to turn it down (unless you are vegetarian and the food is 'non-veg,' my favourite Indianism.) Even if it is not to your taste, try to eat/drink some.
You might spend most of your time in India wishing it was over, and when you leave you will start planning ways to get back. I promise.
I can give more specific advice on itineraries, guesthouses and trains – just leave a comment with your question and I will try to answer it.
xoxo

20 June 2009

Top 30 India Photos.




It is of 2 little girls who swarmed us the moment our camels set us down in Jaisalmer, the fabled sandcastle city in Rasjasthan. They begged for money, barrettes, make-up - they even snatched the hairtie off of my wrist. If you didn't give in they began to sing - LOUDLY. And terribly, like little desert hijras (Eunuchs who also sing until you pay them.)



I bought bangles from this woman in Jaisalmer - she complimented me lavishly even though I was oozing sweat and wearing a lumberjack shirt. It's expensive to keep that baby in eyeliner.


This little guy approached us in Jaisalmer and asked if we wanted to see a magic show. Normally I never give money to children, but come on. This was great.



A Tibetan monk spinning prayer wheels at the Dalai Lama'a residence-in-exile in Dharamsala. While I am definitely a strong supporter of Tibet and the plight of its people I think it is important for the West not to over-cuddlify (yes, I made that up) the religion of Tenzin Gyatso himself. There were problems pre-1950, no one denies that. But let's give them the chance to fix them. This was a beautiful, peaceful place



Tibetan prayer flags strung in the trees of McLeod Ganj. The farther into the Himalayas you go the more Tibetan and Burmese faces you see.


A man reflecting at the Golden Temple, in Amritsar. I respect Sikhism so much - it is an egalitarian, casteless religion that is a breath of fresh air from some of the archaic classism in Hinduism and the mysogyny of Islam in India. Sikh Gurudwaras are a really welcoming place - and they feed you!


The chaos of labrynthine Old Delhi, as seen from the back of a cycle rickshaw.


Men strolling across the vast plaza at the Jama Masjid in Delhi. This was commission by the same king who built the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort in Agra, so the style is very similar.


This old fellow sold me some peanuts in Rishikesh and posed very seriously when I asked him if I could take a photo. I love everything about this.


Ganga Aarti (evening Ganges prayer) in Rishikesh. The huge statue is of Shiva - a sexy, meat eating, tiger slaying god with millions of incarnations. I can still hear the chanting if I close my eyes.

In Goa everything changes - it was a Portuguese colony for 500 years and locals are proud of it. It is pre-dominantly Catholic, and the people have curly hair, biblical names and they dress differently. This is Mama Mary, half deaf and eccentric as hell, buying her day's supply of fish from the fish-wallah (Note the hungry cat circling - she made a huge racket.) When I saw this, I thought of the old feminist saying "a woman needs a man like a fish needs a bicycle" and I was like "Hey! Maybe they do!"


A sar-clad woman strolls the shore at sunset, Anjuna Beach.


This photo was taken in an Isreali cafe in Arambol, Goa. I loved that little pup! Unfortunately, looking at this photo nearly makes me sick as this is the place that gave me dysentry. :(
Everyone gets sick in India, and often it is not from Indian food.


An old couple fishing from their cornicle boat in the river that runs through Hampi. We took a ride in one, and the driver spun us around like a Tilt-a-Whirl.


This old woman is a temple guardian - we gave her a donation and she gave us a tikka mark.


Women washing clothes on the banks of the Hampi River. They were all smiley and waving in the other shots I got of them, but I managed to take one where they relaxed.


OMFG. This is the cutest puppy I have ever seen. This was taken as we rested at a temple located on a huge hill, inhabited by ganga smoking sadhus. Note his little red collar with tiny bells!


Perfume vendor in Mysore - he and his brother charmed us so much that we agreed to buy some essential oils and incense.


Typical South Indian meal, eaten with your hands and served on banana leaves. This was delicious - and less than 2 bucks for both of us.


These guys were splashing, joking and playing in the water in Kerala. Wayyyy more fun way to take a bath than in the West.


The eyeliner is thought to protect small kids in a belief that it makes them ugly and the gods will not want them. I think it makes them look like adorable little glam rockers.


Also in Kerala, where a boat can provide a good living.


A few things to note: the monkey, the "Beware of Monkeys" sign behind me and that fact that I am holding a stick while I eat with my right hand. The moment you put that stick down, the monkey attacks you for your food. I am clearly not impressed.


Tea pickers at a Tata tea plantation in Munnar.


Pretty much the greatest feeling that exists. This right here.


Each day, twice a day, men have to carry these golden animal and God statues to different locations in the temple. Shiva and Parvati are placed in the same room at night so that they can have 'alone' time.


This was just weird.
Those kids above are also with this family - this was taken on Holi in Mamallapuram. On Holi people splash water and coloured powders on each other and drink epic amounts of bhang lassi (pot milkshakes) and get gonzo. We eventually backed slowly away from these people, and they just kept dancing and laughing. Creepy.






 
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